13th September 2007
Authentic sichuanese food in edgy surrounds
The first time I came here I immediately recognised this as the most authentic chinese restaurant I'd visited in London. Not because of the spiciness of the food, or the ethnic composition of the diners, although those can't be ignored. Rather it was due to the fact they had a karaoke setup in the basement and put covers on your jacket (on the back of your seat) to protect it while you ate.
Aside from these little touches, the food itself is the main attraction -- gloriously spiced foods, and a broad selection of sichuan's finest. If you've seen Fuschia Dunlop's book on sichuanese cookery, you'll find many dishes - twice-cooked pork, ants climbing trees, ma po beancurd - here. There's also a few dishes I've not seen before - the cumin prawns were a taste revelation.
The restaurant does do non-spicy dishes, and does them well, free from the gloopy sauces that plague many chinese restaurants in the UK. However to get the most out of your visit, be prepared for copious amounts of chilli, chilli oil, and numbing sichuan pepper.
The hotpot is worth a special mention - you can go for the hot (chilli-based) and/or mild options. You then choose from a list of delicacies, ranging from the usual (beef, lettuce, mushrooms) to the unusual (intestines) to dip in and cook.
All up, well worth a trip to Euston to savour the spice. To get the most out of a visit, bring a large group of chilli-enthusiasts, book the private room and sing some karaoke if you dare.